London Town

When we decided to spend the year in Milan, we knew that we might have the opportunity to travel  to other destinations.  Ken was asked to attend a conference at the London School of Economics (LSE).  Given the nature of the conference and the opportunity to be in London, we decided to definitely go.  It was a thoroughly enjoyable visit.  I haven't followed the British economic crisis that closely, but if London is indicative of what is happening in Britain, it certainly is making a comeback (although we are told that London doesn't reflect the real estate situation in the rest of the country).  There was definitely lots of buzz.  I hadn't been there in a few years.  Large crowds were everywhere; construction in many parts of London.  I had always appreciated how multi-cultural London is but found it even more diverse on this trip.  I also noticed a larger Muslim population than in the past.

We stayed in Club Quarters located in Lincoln's Inn Fields, the largest public square in London.  It was laid out in 1630.  It is adjacent to Lincoln's Inn, one of the four Inns of Court in London to which barristers of England and Wales belong and are called to the Bar.   Apparently in Dickens’ Bleak House the sinister solicitor, Mr. Talkinghom, had his offices in one of the Inns of Court. Also on the square is the home of Sir John Soane, an architect whose house was established in 1833 as a museum, definitely worth a visit. 

As soon as we arrived ,Ken joined his colleagues at the LSE and I went on my favorite walk in London.  The weather was brisk but the sun was bright.  I walked down Oxford Street (filled with shoppers) to Hyde Park.  It was as beautiful as ever.  I think it is the combination of the size of the park and the landscape that makes it remarkable.  I passed the Serpentine and headed for Knightsbridge.  An area of international restaurants has been created across from the Victoria and Albert Museum .  The area is a lovely plaza with no cars and outdoor eating.  (I have noticed in London, Spain, and Italy outdoor eating is preferred even in colder weather.)  As I ate Middle Eastern food, it was delightful seeing families, students, and businessmen all enjoying the sun and their lunch.

Marble Arch

 

Serpentine - Hyde Park

I then walked to the V&A and followed a friend's recommendation to go to the medieval section of the museum.  The museum always surprises me.  It is an amazing collection of artifacts from throughout the world. This section covers art and culture from 300-1600 A.D. with spectacular examples of religious art and sculpture.  I must admit I took the long way back to the hotel (did get a bit lost) and walked along Piccadilly and the entire length of Bond Street.  Fashion and wealth are alive and well.

V & A

The conference dinner was at a French bistro in Covent Garden -- 30 people seated at long tables served large platters of leg of lamb and much wine.  It is always fun to meet Ken's colleagues especially at conferences abroad which bring together academics from all over the world.  I also enjoy seeing graduate students included in these meetings.  The LSE had three conferences meeting simultaneously.  We saw a few current and former Harvard graduate students and other colleagues, meeting them unexpectedly on the street or in the elevator of the hotel.

The next day as the conference continued, I walked to the Wallace Collection in Hertford House, a London town house with a collection of 15th to 19th century fine and decorative arts.  The museum was established in 1897 with the family stipulation that no object could leave the collection. (Similar to Isabella Stewart Gardner's request for her Boston museum).  It is a spectacular house on a quiet London street and given the time of day, I practically had the house all to myself.  (I am seeing many museums this year and am developing an appreciation of the goals of the curators - each museum has its own purpose and personality).  The museum is south of Regents Park and north of Oxford Street in Marylebone.  It is a neighborhood of hospitals, small restaurants, and interesting shops.  I walked  on one of my favorite streets nearby, Charolette Street. a street of small shops and restaurants.  It was easy to spend the afternoon in that part of London.

That evening Ken and I went to see the play, The Curious Incident of the Dog in the Night, an adaptation of a novel by Mark Haddon (if you haven't read it, it is a great read).  We were thrilled with the production.  The story is told from the perspective of a young boy who is autistic.  The post-modern (not sure how else to describe it) set and sound effects allow the audience to view the world from this perspective.  Theatre in London, like New York, is exciting and this production didn't disappoint.  After the play we walked through Chinatown and found a small restaurant where we shared some quite good appetizers and soup.

Saturday, the conference ended and we could be tourists together.  Our first stop was the Churchill War Rooms, near 10 Downing Street.  They have been expanded since I had been there (many years ago) and we found the displays confusing - very high tech.  That aside, what an amazing time it was in the history of Great Britain.  To be in this bunker gives one the sense of how frightening and challenging the German assault on Britain was and why Churchill has gained iconic status.  I then wandered for several hours through the National Museum and stopped by my favorite cheese shop (I haven't found one as exciting in Milan), Neal's Yard in Covent Garden.  The owner of the shop in the 1970's wanted to encourage local farmers to produce cheese and has continued to support local providers.  The cheddar cheese may be the best in the world.  I brought some back to Milan.  That evening Ken took me to the Delauney, a restaurant that has the elegant flair of a traditional Viennese coffee house -- white linen, crystal chandeliers and excellent service.  Upon Ken's recommendation, I had spatchcock poussin - delicious.

Our last day in London we walked in early morning along the south side of the Thames.  We discovered a local culinary fair and the book stalls that are probably there every Sunday.  From there we had a beautiful view of Parliament and Big Ben.  That afternoon we met a close friend and colleague of Ken's in Islington for brunch and then walked to the Arsenal football stadium.  Our son-in-law is a fan and we wanted to send him pictures of the stadium.

London Eye

We left London excited by its energy and opportunities.