A Night at the Opera

One of the more exciting events of our stay in Milan occurred this month.  Ken and I went to Theatro alla Scala to see Verdi's La Traviata.  Many years ago we saw a ballet, La Strada, at La Scala but this performance was our first time to return.  The arrangements had been made several months ago and as we approached the date, my excitement grew.  That evening we intentionally arrived early. Everything sparkled -- the interior of the opera house, the audience, the performers and the orchestra.  The audience was conservatively well-dressed.  Men wore well-tailored dark suits and most women wore black with the appropriate jewelery and beautiful scarves.

La Scala is clearly an historic building, renovated numerous times.  A fire in 1776 had destroyed the original building and a new opera house was constructed on the former location of the church of Santa Maria all Scala in 1778.  The current 2800 person seating arrangement was part of the 1907 renovation.  In 1943 during WW II, it was damaged by bombing, restored, and reopened in May 1946.  La Scala was renovated again between 2002 and 2004 and as a result of that renovation has seat monitors with an electronic libretto system, following libretti in English, Italian, and the original language.  That innovation certainly helped us.

La Traviata was directed by the Russian, Dmitri Tcherniadov.  There has been some criticism of his slight modernizing of the production but to our inexperienced eyes, it was hardly noticeable, except for modernized costumes.  The New York Times critic, George Loomis, not critical of the changes, described the sets as elegant but minimalist.  Diana Damrau, a German opera star, sang the lead role of Violetta.  Her voice was spectacular and her acting ability impressive.   

Our friend and musicologist, Cynthia Verba, provided us with some background so that we could put the opera in its musical context.  She explained that a tension existed between Wagner and Verdi.  Wagner, a contemporary of Verdi, was a threat to Verdi and the concept of Italian opera.  Wagner placed as much emphasis on the orchestra as on the performers.  Writing an opera, for Wagner, was like creating a symphony.  In Italian operas the aria and the singer reigned supreme, as was obvious in Verdi's operas.  With Traviata, Verdi was in top form.  Cynthia stressed that the singing in Verdi's operas is magnificent and the orchestra plays a supportive role.   The New York Times critic noted that La Scala placated the traditionalists by opening its season with Verdi and not Wagner, whose opera was chosen to open the last season.  Our audience seemed very pleased with the choice.

The curtain calls were more than I could count.  Diana  Damrau was gracious and continued to bring all the singers back onto the stage.  We left quite elated and then walked by the Duomo in front of which was standing a majestic Christmas tree.

Season's Greetings to all from Rise and Ken.

A Welcoming

The early arrivals

Waiting in anticipation

Something magical in the air

And then the lovely view of Piazzo Duomo