Cantine Isola

Cantine Isola, a wine bar in Milan, represents all that is attractive about Italy -- friendship, loyalty, family, and excellent wine.  A friend recommended Isola and several weeks ago we decided to visit it.  The adventure began with a short ride on the Metro and a 10-12 block walk.  When we entered we discovered a store that had changed very little over the last 50 years.  High tech has passed it by.  The shelves are stacked from floor to ceiling with wine from all the regions of Italy, as well as limited selections from Germany and France.  Customers are greeted as soon as they enter and are identified by name.  Behind the counter is usually a member of the family, Gianni Sarais, the father; Tina Sarais, the mother, and Luca Sarais, the grown son.  We quickly developed a relationship with Luca who speaks English.

Wine bar

Luca

Wine is served by the glass.  Snacks are plentiful - raw vegetables, olives taggiasche, peperonata della casa, various nuts, and bruscetta.  The goal of the Sarais family is for customers to meet each other, share stories, and learn about wine.  They reinforce customer attitudes about wines they know and encourage them to develop a taste for new varieties.  Ken and I decided that on each visit (we have now been there twice) we would sample four wines. Of the eight wines we drank, plus little tastes of dessert wines, we bought two different Barbarescos and one Barolo from Piemonte, an Amarone from Veneto, an obscure wine from the Marche region -- all very accessible reds -- and a half bottle of Recioto della Valpolicella (a dessert wine from Veneto)

Gianni

During our first visit we discovered that a film had been made about Cantine Isola.  We were given a copy and have spent close to two hours watching an entertaining and well-documented history of Isola and the neighborhood.  A trailer is available on YouTube: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z7EI0f5sgVI

From the DVD we learned that a wine establishment existed in that location as early as the 1890s.  Gianni Sarais purchased the store in 1991.  He had come as a young man to Milan from Sardinia.  He and his wife, a Sicilian, operated a restaurant for many years.  Gianni discovered that the wine shop was for sale and purchased it.  Luca, his son, while studying economics, learned the trade and eventually became a full-time participant in running the store.

Back door leads to 4 small cellars

The shelves

What attracts customers to Isola? There is a loyal clientele - some have been customers for thirty years or more.  The customers say that billionaires, paupers, artists and T.V. directors drop in.  They describe Isola as part Alpine inn, part German tavern.  Once a week, Luca reads a short poem written by a well-known poet, a local artist or a co-worker.  He says the poem is always short because in Milan the finer things are concentrated.

Our last visit proved the point that if you come in alone you go out with friends.  We arrived and greeted Luca.  Immediately two customers introduced themselves.  They were alums from the same military academy in Venice.  One had traveled extensively in the U.S., in particular he had been to Boston many times on business.  We discussed wine, travel, Milan, Italy, and politics.  As they were about to leave, one of the men bought us a bottle of wine, as he said, a sign of hospitality.  The experience confirms Luca's claim that Isola gives the customer a chance to feel good.

Le Befana

Today, January 6, is a holiday in Milan.  I was not sure why it was a festival day.  I saw witches on broom sticks in store windows.  I knew it wasn't Halloween.  Here is the answer as noted on the web site Goitaly, written by Martha Bakerjian:

The Feast of the Epiphany, celebrated January 6 with a national holiday in Italy, and the tradition of La Befana are a big part of Italian Christmas celebrations. Epiphany commemorates the 12th day of Christmas when the three Wise Men arrived at the manger bearing gifts for Baby Jesus. The traditional Christmas holiday season in Italy lasts through Epiphany.

La Befana

 

Italy's traditional celebration includes the tale of a witch known as La Befana who arrives on her broomstick during the night of January 5 and fills the stockings with toys and sweets for the good children and lumps of coal for the bad ones.
According to the legend, the night before the Wise Men arrived at the manger they stopped at the shack of an old woman to ask directions. They invited her to come along but she replied that she was too busy. Then a shepherd asked her to join him but again she refused. Later that night, she saw a great light in the sky and decided to join the Wise Men and the shepherd bearing gifts that had belonged to her child who had died. She got lost and never found the manger.
Now La Befana flies around on her broomstick each year on the 11th night, bringing gifts to children in hopes that she might find the Baby Jesus. Children hang their stockings on the evening of January 5 awaiting the visit of La Befana.
See My Befana for La Befana song and more about the legend.
The origins of La Befana may actually go back farther, to the Roman's pagan festival of Saturnalia, a one or two week festival starting just before the winter solstice. At the end of Saturnalia, Romans would go to the Temple of Juno on the Capitoline Hill to have their augers read by an old crone. Many pagan traditions were incorporated into Christmas celebrations when Christianity became main stream. La Befana was a good substitute for the old woman who read the augers. The saying augur originated with this practice, too, as it was common to wish someone good augers.

Milan holds an Epiphany Parade of the Three Kings from the Duomo to the church of Sant'Eustorgio.

This afternoon the parade from the Duomo passed our apartment.

A Night at the Opera

One of the more exciting events of our stay in Milan occurred this month.  Ken and I went to Theatro alla Scala to see Verdi's La Traviata.  Many years ago we saw a ballet, La Strada, at La Scala but this performance was our first time to return.  The arrangements had been made several months ago and as we approached the date, my excitement grew.  That evening we intentionally arrived early. Everything sparkled -- the interior of the opera house, the audience, the performers and the orchestra.  The audience was conservatively well-dressed.  Men wore well-tailored dark suits and most women wore black with the appropriate jewelery and beautiful scarves.

La Scala is clearly an historic building, renovated numerous times.  A fire in 1776 had destroyed the original building and a new opera house was constructed on the former location of the church of Santa Maria all Scala in 1778.  The current 2800 person seating arrangement was part of the 1907 renovation.  In 1943 during WW II, it was damaged by bombing, restored, and reopened in May 1946.  La Scala was renovated again between 2002 and 2004 and as a result of that renovation has seat monitors with an electronic libretto system, following libretti in English, Italian, and the original language.  That innovation certainly helped us.

La Traviata was directed by the Russian, Dmitri Tcherniadov.  There has been some criticism of his slight modernizing of the production but to our inexperienced eyes, it was hardly noticeable, except for modernized costumes.  The New York Times critic, George Loomis, not critical of the changes, described the sets as elegant but minimalist.  Diana Damrau, a German opera star, sang the lead role of Violetta.  Her voice was spectacular and her acting ability impressive.   

Our friend and musicologist, Cynthia Verba, provided us with some background so that we could put the opera in its musical context.  She explained that a tension existed between Wagner and Verdi.  Wagner, a contemporary of Verdi, was a threat to Verdi and the concept of Italian opera.  Wagner placed as much emphasis on the orchestra as on the performers.  Writing an opera, for Wagner, was like creating a symphony.  In Italian operas the aria and the singer reigned supreme, as was obvious in Verdi's operas.  With Traviata, Verdi was in top form.  Cynthia stressed that the singing in Verdi's operas is magnificent and the orchestra plays a supportive role.   The New York Times critic noted that La Scala placated the traditionalists by opening its season with Verdi and not Wagner, whose opera was chosen to open the last season.  Our audience seemed very pleased with the choice.

The curtain calls were more than I could count.  Diana  Damrau was gracious and continued to bring all the singers back onto the stage.  We left quite elated and then walked by the Duomo in front of which was standing a majestic Christmas tree.

Season's Greetings to all from Rise and Ken.

A Welcoming

The early arrivals

Waiting in anticipation

Something magical in the air

And then the lovely view of Piazzo Duomo

London Town

When we decided to spend the year in Milan, we knew that we might have the opportunity to travel  to other destinations.  Ken was asked to attend a conference at the London School of Economics (LSE).  Given the nature of the conference and the opportunity to be in London, we decided to definitely go.  It was a thoroughly enjoyable visit.  I haven't followed the British economic crisis that closely, but if London is indicative of what is happening in Britain, it certainly is making a comeback (although we are told that London doesn't reflect the real estate situation in the rest of the country).  There was definitely lots of buzz.  I hadn't been there in a few years.  Large crowds were everywhere; construction in many parts of London.  I had always appreciated how multi-cultural London is but found it even more diverse on this trip.  I also noticed a larger Muslim population than in the past.

We stayed in Club Quarters located in Lincoln's Inn Fields, the largest public square in London.  It was laid out in 1630.  It is adjacent to Lincoln's Inn, one of the four Inns of Court in London to which barristers of England and Wales belong and are called to the Bar.   Apparently in Dickens’ Bleak House the sinister solicitor, Mr. Talkinghom, had his offices in one of the Inns of Court. Also on the square is the home of Sir John Soane, an architect whose house was established in 1833 as a museum, definitely worth a visit. 

As soon as we arrived ,Ken joined his colleagues at the LSE and I went on my favorite walk in London.  The weather was brisk but the sun was bright.  I walked down Oxford Street (filled with shoppers) to Hyde Park.  It was as beautiful as ever.  I think it is the combination of the size of the park and the landscape that makes it remarkable.  I passed the Serpentine and headed for Knightsbridge.  An area of international restaurants has been created across from the Victoria and Albert Museum .  The area is a lovely plaza with no cars and outdoor eating.  (I have noticed in London, Spain, and Italy outdoor eating is preferred even in colder weather.)  As I ate Middle Eastern food, it was delightful seeing families, students, and businessmen all enjoying the sun and their lunch.

Marble Arch

 

Serpentine - Hyde Park

I then walked to the V&A and followed a friend's recommendation to go to the medieval section of the museum.  The museum always surprises me.  It is an amazing collection of artifacts from throughout the world. This section covers art and culture from 300-1600 A.D. with spectacular examples of religious art and sculpture.  I must admit I took the long way back to the hotel (did get a bit lost) and walked along Piccadilly and the entire length of Bond Street.  Fashion and wealth are alive and well.

V & A

The conference dinner was at a French bistro in Covent Garden -- 30 people seated at long tables served large platters of leg of lamb and much wine.  It is always fun to meet Ken's colleagues especially at conferences abroad which bring together academics from all over the world.  I also enjoy seeing graduate students included in these meetings.  The LSE had three conferences meeting simultaneously.  We saw a few current and former Harvard graduate students and other colleagues, meeting them unexpectedly on the street or in the elevator of the hotel.

The next day as the conference continued, I walked to the Wallace Collection in Hertford House, a London town house with a collection of 15th to 19th century fine and decorative arts.  The museum was established in 1897 with the family stipulation that no object could leave the collection. (Similar to Isabella Stewart Gardner's request for her Boston museum).  It is a spectacular house on a quiet London street and given the time of day, I practically had the house all to myself.  (I am seeing many museums this year and am developing an appreciation of the goals of the curators - each museum has its own purpose and personality).  The museum is south of Regents Park and north of Oxford Street in Marylebone.  It is a neighborhood of hospitals, small restaurants, and interesting shops.  I walked  on one of my favorite streets nearby, Charolette Street. a street of small shops and restaurants.  It was easy to spend the afternoon in that part of London.

That evening Ken and I went to see the play, The Curious Incident of the Dog in the Night, an adaptation of a novel by Mark Haddon (if you haven't read it, it is a great read).  We were thrilled with the production.  The story is told from the perspective of a young boy who is autistic.  The post-modern (not sure how else to describe it) set and sound effects allow the audience to view the world from this perspective.  Theatre in London, like New York, is exciting and this production didn't disappoint.  After the play we walked through Chinatown and found a small restaurant where we shared some quite good appetizers and soup.

Saturday, the conference ended and we could be tourists together.  Our first stop was the Churchill War Rooms, near 10 Downing Street.  They have been expanded since I had been there (many years ago) and we found the displays confusing - very high tech.  That aside, what an amazing time it was in the history of Great Britain.  To be in this bunker gives one the sense of how frightening and challenging the German assault on Britain was and why Churchill has gained iconic status.  I then wandered for several hours through the National Museum and stopped by my favorite cheese shop (I haven't found one as exciting in Milan), Neal's Yard in Covent Garden.  The owner of the shop in the 1970's wanted to encourage local farmers to produce cheese and has continued to support local providers.  The cheddar cheese may be the best in the world.  I brought some back to Milan.  That evening Ken took me to the Delauney, a restaurant that has the elegant flair of a traditional Viennese coffee house -- white linen, crystal chandeliers and excellent service.  Upon Ken's recommendation, I had spatchcock poussin - delicious.

Our last day in London we walked in early morning along the south side of the Thames.  We discovered a local culinary fair and the book stalls that are probably there every Sunday.  From there we had a beautiful view of Parliament and Big Ben.  That afternoon we met a close friend and colleague of Ken's in Islington for brunch and then walked to the Arsenal football stadium.  Our son-in-law is a fan and we wanted to send him pictures of the stadium.

London Eye

We left London excited by its energy and opportunities.