Communications

I do want to write about two short trips we took but I had a humorous encounter at the gym that I thought I should mention.  First of all, the saga of joining the gym at Bocconi (Ken's affiliation for the year).  We were told in order to join we would have to find a local internist, have an exam and then have the physician sign a release form so we could use the gym.  Ok, but to do that we would have to first join the National Health plan. (Visions of weeks of bureaucracy appeared before us.)  Fortunately a very helpful young man at the gym said that if we had a release emailed or faxed from our U.S. doctor that would be fine.  Our doctors responded immediately to the request and Ken and I are now registered at the gym.  A number of people have apologized for the gym.  Granted it is small but very convenient and we are not gym rats.  Our needs are minimal.  Also, a new gym will open next month and will be larger. 

Yesterday I had an appointment to see a trainer.  The plan was to learn about several of the machines and organize a reasonable workout.  The appointment was at 4 in the afternoon.  I was not sure what to expect.  I walked in and several guys were gathered around the check in desk (the operative word is guys.  In an institution of 16,000 students where are the women in this gym?  A few are there but it is overwhelmingly male.) 

The several guys decided that they would be helpful.  (Remember that all these interactions were in Italian.  Each of them had a very little English to work with and we already know how little Italian I have).  One wanted to know what type of workout I wanted -- pointing to various parts of his body.  I indicated a complete one.  Another wanted to make sure I knew where the lockers were and what keys I should use to get into the locker room.  I did but it was easier to just follow along.  Finally the older man who the others called the boss indicated that he was the trainer.  I pointed to the appointment book so he could see my name.  He put me on the cycle for a 10-minute warm-up  I think at this point they were all wondering what this little old lady was doing at the gym.  I tried to tell them I had a trainer in the U.S. but I am not sure that message ever got through.

The trainer than went over a few floor exercises - these were fine but he couldn't continue because the phone kept ringing.  He sent over a very sweet young guy who is training to be a trainer.  He was very concerned that I could manage these exercises.  I had to demonstrate that actually I could do a number of them.  He also had very little English and several times apologized.  Not to worry.  He had more English than I had Italian.  He also asked me several times how to translate biceps and triceps into English.  It was a funny conversation all around.

At the end he entered the exercises and the number of repetitions into the computer and asked my assistance in naming the machines in English.  I was not too helpful.  I have no idea the names of these machines, I just use them.  By this time several guys were back at the check-in desk and had a few more suggestions for what I could do.  Mind you they were all speaking in Italian and I could tell they were teasing me.  Hey, I said, That's not fair.  They all laughed. 

So grandma will return, not pumping iron but an hour and a half work out is not bad.

A birthday celebration

Yesterday was Ken's birthday.  I tried to tempt him into buying some Italian clothes for his birthday but he was not ready to take the plunge.  Ah!  I knew how to get his attention, Italian wine.  I went into a local wine store.  Unlike Wellesley, Milan is not dry!  What followed was an interesting conversation with the salesman.  My knowledge of wine is limited and his English was very limited.  I suggested Piedmont as a region and he said, instead, what about Amarone.  I knew Ken likes these wines so I said fine.  I explained this was a special gift and he asked price range which was easy to communicate.  I needed to convey to him that I wanted a bottle that we could drink now rather than waiting 10 years -- bere adesso - appeared to communicate that message.  In Italian he explained to me why the bottle he brought out was a good choice - he drew pictures of the hill and where the vines were located.  I kept shaking my head in agreement. The deal was complete.  As luck would have it, it turned out to be an interesting bottle - Morar Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2004.  Ken was pleased.  We then checked to see what types of cheese and food would go well with it - duck with balsamic vinegar, stews, beef short ribs.  In other words, hearty fare.  We might hold off to cooler weather and invite a small group to share the wine. (Speaking of weather, Ken reports that we can expect moderate weather through October and then the fun begins - rain and some snow for 4 months.  He was told not as much snow as Boston and probably slightly warmer temperatures.)

Last night we wanted a celebratory dinner and choose a restaurant around the corner.  We had dropped in last week to check it out and the waiter remembered the professor from Boston.  Its specialty is Sardinian dishes.  We asked for suggestions and had quite an evening.  As soon as we were seated we were given glasses of prosecco and brushetta.  The waiter suggested specialties of the house - clams and mussels zuppa, Sardinian pasta with mini lobsters and clams; and a grilled seafood dish with mixed fish, squid, and we think crayfish.  For dessert we shared a Sardinian specialty - sweet cheese and cream in a light crust with a drizzle of honey.  As a farewell the waiter brought us blackberry liquor poured into iced glasses.  We arrived earlier - 7:30.  By 9 others arrived.  The attention from the staff was quite amazing and we paid for the wine but the other drinks were on the house.  We know we will return with our visitors.   A note:  The restaurant is located across the street from a large ditch that used to be one of Milan's canals.  There are pictures from the early 1900s of boots on the canal.  The restaurant's name represents sand, sabbia, that used to line the canal.

The chief, Ken, the waiter

The Restaurant

Interior

Da Mercato a Tavola

Having arrived August 28, we have been in Milan 10 days. There are a number of loose ends - need to find a G.P. to get a medical release for the gym, need to find a gym, need to decide on Italian - classes or private lessons.  These details make me realize how routinized our normal life is in Boston;  We all have chosen doctors, have decided if we will use a gym; have determined an exercise routine, or not; can be efficient about shopping because we know where to go for what items.   As complicated as these choices are, I keep thinking about making these decisions in a less developed country.  I also think about the graduate students who each year travel the globe doing research in places they have never been.  With that in mind, what we have to do is easy.

One of the first challenges was determining where to shop and what food we need.  Not unexpectedly (those of you who know the Shepsles will have predicted that this would be a high priority) we have successfully met that challenge.  We now have three local grocery stores, the local market (mercato) and a series of wine stores that Ken is getting to know.  So many Italian wines and so little time.

Here is an example of the process.  In one trip to our local market I observed that the butcher counter offered what appeared to be excellent cuts of veal and beef.  I purchased very inexpensive osso buco and found a recipe on the Epicurious website (osso buco milanese).  All ingredients were available.  My only challenge was chicken broth.  Thank you Marcia for explaining how to ask for it (brodo pollo). (I am very lucky to have friends conversant in Italian who are in the States but are serving as my guide).  And yes I found the chicken broth.

I never thought I would post a picture of anything I made but I wanted to take you from the market to the table.

The butcher

Osso Buco

Many choices

Items from around the world

The Market

Fruits and vegetables, only the best

The apartment

Kitchen and Dining area

Great Room

Guest bedroom

Park across the street

Master bedroom window

It is amazing how little we have had to do to the apartment to make it feel like home.  It has the feel of an urban condo - very high ceilings, tall windows, a modern kitchen, and, yes, a washer and dryer. All the appliances are very modern including a wide screen TV with excellent reception. Because of a limit on electricity, we can only use two appliances at a time.  I am developing a strategy.  Last night, not thinking, I ran the air conditioner, dryer and oven -- bingo, all lights and appliances stopped.  Not difficult to put circuits back on but it was a reminder!  We do have a regular reminder that we are in an urban setting - the tram passes by on a very regular basis.  We did not expect to have so many conveniences.    I have included some pictures of the apartment.

The University

We have had very positive interactions with Bocconi.  I realize how difficult it must be to go to some place abroad without the support of an institution.  There are many new things to experience in Milan but Bocconi feels like home.  Registration was yesterday and the buildings were filled with students.  Bocconi is a business school offering courses for undergraduates, master's students, and some PhDs.  Ken is familiar with the economics program; many of these undergraduates come to the U.S. for their PhDs.  The students and faculty are 10% international.  Courses are offered in economics, finance, law, business, political economy, public policy, but no humanities. The building that houses Ken's program, public policy, is what might be called post modern, designed by an Irish firm, Grafton Associates.  It has been described as: "a succession of open spaces, stairs, and concrete elements that seem suspended in air.  Wide glass panels and openings convey natural light to the basement."  We both really like it.  Ken will let me know how well it functions.  Ken has a good size office and the department administrators have been very accommodating.  We had thought we could take Italian through Bocconi but that program is no longer offered.  There is a gym - we first have to get clearance from a local physician (and before that have to sign up with the national health service).  There is also a private gym located nearby which we will visit.

Friday, a Bocconi administrator will meet us in city center and will walk us through some final bureaucratic steps.  I use the term final but really can't predict what remains.

The Streets of Milan

Saturday and Sunday have been days of exploring.  Wow!  It is the excitement of being in a large city and of being in Italy.  We are enjoying both.  Yesterday morning we walked down the street to the open market which we think will be open six days a week.  Fruits, vegetables, meat, fish, and wonderful cheeses.  I will look for a recipe for osso bucco for this week.  The veal shanks looked too good to miss.  I will try fish that we haven't had in the past.  I will let you know about success and even failure.  As we walked to a local supermarket we stopped in a restaurant to check a menu.  The maitre d gave us each a glass of preseco (at 11:30 a.m.)  How could we refuse.  Shopping will be very easy with three supermarkets located nearby.  Yesterday late afternoon we walked to the Duomo.  It is quite spectacular (we didn't go in, will wait for the many tours we will take with company) but the area around the Duomo is quite remarkable- designer's row.  This is about a 25- minute walk from our flat.  We returned to our street early evening and settled in at a local cafe for a beer.  The night was beautiful and the streets filled.  It was quite lovely so we decided to just order a pizza and another beer.  Crust was very light and pizza is made with less oil than in the U.S. 

Today we walked past the Duomo to the Castle - a very impressive midievil castle which houses an art and archeological museum.  We are looking for a coffee maker, electric or drip but can't find one, slightly ironic in Milan.

I understand Obama is holding off striking Syria.  At the moment can't find anything good from that type of strike.